Textile Twicely

Project Overview

Textile Twicely is a comprehensive circular economy initiative that addresses the urgent challenge of textile waste in the fashion industry. The project developed a practical framework for sustainable textile reuse and recycling, creating a business model that enables fashion brands and recycling facilities to collaborate more effectively.

The Challenge

The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest polluters, with over 92 million tons of textile waste generated annually. In the Netherlands alone, approximately 200,000 tons of textiles are discarded each year, with only 25% being collected for reuse or recycling. The remaining 75% ends up in landfills or incinerators, representing both an environmental crisis and a massive loss of valuable materials.

Key Problems Identified:

• Fragmented Collection Systems: Multiple collection points with inconsistent quality standards
• Lack of Sorting Infrastructure: Insufficient technology to sort textiles by material type and quality
• Limited Recycling Capacity: Few facilities capable of processing post-consumer textiles
• Economic Barriers: Recycled textiles often more expensive than virgin materials
• Information Gaps: Consumers lack knowledge about textile disposal options

Research Approach

The team conducted extensive research over 5 months, combining literature review, stakeholder interviews, and market analysis to understand the textile waste ecosystem in the Netherlands.

Methodology

1. Literature Review

• Analyzed EU Circular Economy Action Plan and Textile Strategy
• Studied successful circular textile models from Nordic countries
• Reviewed academic research on textile recycling technologies

2. Stakeholder Interviews (15 conducted)

• Fashion retailers (H&M, C&A, local boutiques)
• Textile recycling facilities (3 visits)
• Municipality waste management departments
• Charity organizations (Salvation Army, Red Cross)
• Textile designers and manufacturers

3. Market Analysis

• Mapped the Dutch textile supply chain
• Identified key bottlenecks and opportunities
• Analyzed cost structures of recycling vs. virgin production
• Benchmarked against international best practices

4. Consumer Survey (n=250)

• Understanding consumer attitudes toward sustainable fashion
• Identifying barriers to textile recycling
• Testing willingness to pay for recycled textiles

Key Findings

Supply Chain Insights

The Dutch textile value chain involves multiple disconnected actors:

Collection → Sorting → Processing → Manufacturing → Retail

Critical Gaps:

1. Quality Degradation: Each handoff point reduces material quality
2. Information Loss: Material composition data not transferred
3. Economic Misalignment: Value captured by middlemen, not innovators
4. Technology Deficit: Limited chemical recycling capabilities in NL

Business Model Opportunities

The team identified three viable business models for circular textiles:

Model 1: Take-Back Programs

• Fashion brands collect used garments from customers
• Incentivize returns with discounts or store credit
• Partner with recyclers for material processing
• Example: H&M Garment Collecting program

Model 2: Textile Sorting Hubs

• Centralized facilities with advanced sorting technology
• Automated classification by fiber type and quality
• Create standardized material streams for recyclers
• Innovation: AI-powered textile recognition

Model 3: Closed-Loop Fashion

• Brands design for recyclability from the start
• Use mono-materials or easily separable components
• Maintain ownership of materials throughout lifecycle
• Example: Patagonia’s Worn Wear program

Solution: The Textile Twicely Framework

Based on research findings, the team developed a comprehensive framework for implementing circular textile systems in the Netherlands.

Framework Components

1. Standardized Collection System

Goal: Create consistent, high-quality textile collection across Netherlands

Key Elements:

• Unified collection bins at retail locations
• Clear communication about acceptable items
• Quality guidelines for donated textiles
• Digital tracking system for materials

Implementation:

• Partner with existing charity collection networks
• Deploy 500+ collection points in Randstad region
• Mobile app for consumers to find nearest collection point

2. Digital Material Passport

Goal: Maintain fiber composition data throughout textile lifecycle

Features:

• QR code tags on garments
• Database of material compositions
• Sortation facility integration
• Transparency for consumers

Benefits:

• Enables automated sorting
• Increases recycling efficiency
• Supports EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) schemes

3. Regional Sorting Hub

Goal: Process collected textiles efficiently and create quality material streams

Capacity:

• Handle 10,000 tons/year initially
• Scalable to 50,000 tons/year
• Location: Utrecht (central Netherlands)

Technology:

• Near-infrared (NIR) scanners for fiber identification
• Automated conveyor systems
• Manual quality check stations
• Baling equipment for standardized output

Output Categories:

• A-grade: Reuse as-is (15%)
• B-grade: Upcycling potential (25%)
• C-grade: Fiber recycling (40%)
• D-grade: Downcycling or energy recovery (20%)

4. Stakeholder Platform

Goal: Connect all actors in circular textile ecosystem

Features:

• Marketplace for recycled textile materials
• Quality certifications and standards
• Collaboration tools for brands and recyclers
• Data dashboard for transparency

Users:

• Fashion brands
• Recycling facilities
• Textile manufacturers
• Policy makers

Impact Assessment

Environmental Impact (Projected)

If implemented at full scale (50,000 tons/year):

Carbon Emissions:

• Reduction: 75,000 tons CO₂ equivalent annually
• Comparison: Equal to removing 16,000 cars from roads

Water Savings:

• Volume: 1.5 billion liters annually
• Impact: Equivalent to water for 30,000 households

Waste Diversion:

• Landfill: 50,000 tons diverted annually
• Recovery Rate: Increase from 25% to 65% in target region

Economic Impact

Job Creation:

• Direct jobs: 150-200 (sorting hub operations)
• Indirect jobs: 400-500 (collection, transport, processing)

Market Potential:

• Recycled textile market in NL: €50-75 million annually
• Growth rate: 15-20% CAGR projected

Cost Savings for Brands:

• Virgin material costs: €3-5/kg
• Recycled material costs: €2.50-4/kg
• Potential savings: 20-30% on material procurement

Social Impact

Consumer Behavior:

• Survey results: 72% willing to participate in take-back programs
• Premium acceptance: 45% willing to pay 10-15% more for recycled textiles

Industry Transformation:

• Shift from linear to circular models
• Increased transparency and traceability
• Enhanced brand reputation and ESG scores

Implementation Roadmap

The team developed a phased 3-year implementation plan:

Year 1: Pilot Phase

• Launch 50 collection points in Utrecht region
• Establish small-scale sorting operations (2,000 tons/year)
• Onboard 5 fashion brand partners
• Develop digital material passport MVP

Year 2: Scale-Up

• Expand to 200 collection points across Randstad
• Build full-capacity sorting hub (10,000 tons/year)
• Integrate with major textile recyclers
• Launch stakeholder platform

Year 3: Regional Expansion

• 500+ collection points nationwide
• Full capacity operations (50,000 tons/year)
• International partnerships (Belgium, Germany)
• Policy advocacy for mandatory textile recycling

Business Model Canvas

Value Proposition:

• For Brands: Access to recycled materials, improved sustainability credentials
• For Consumers: Easy textile disposal, contribution to circular economy
• For Recyclers: Consistent, quality material streams

Revenue Streams:

• Service fees from fashion brands (take-back program management)
• Material sales (sorted textile bales)
• Platform subscription fees
• Government subsidies and EPR incentives

Cost Structure:

• Collection infrastructure: 30%
• Sorting operations: 40%
• Technology platform: 15%
• Marketing and partnerships: 15%

Key Partnerships:

• Fashion brands and retailers
• Textile recycling facilities
• Municipalities and waste management
• Technology providers (sorting equipment)
• Logistics companies

Policy Recommendations

The team identified critical policy interventions to enable circular textiles:

1. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

• Mandate fashion brands to finance textile collection and recycling
• Fee structure based on material recyclability
• Incentivize design for circularity

2. Recycled Content Mandates

• Require minimum % recycled content in new textiles
• Phase-in: 10% by 2026, 25% by 2030
• Verification through material passports

3. Tax Incentives

• Reduce VAT on recycled textile products
• Tax breaks for circular textile infrastructure investments
• Carbon pricing for virgin textile production

4. Public Procurement

• Mandate recycled content in government textile purchases
• Create demand signal for circular textiles
• Support local circular textile industries

Lessons Learned

What Worked Well

✅ Stakeholder Engagement

• Early involvement of industry partners built buy-in
• Collaborative approach ensured practical solutions
• Real-world validation through pilot partnerships

✅ Systems Thinking

• Holistic approach addressed entire value chain
• Identified interdependencies and leverage points
• Framework scalable and adaptable

✅ Data-Driven

• Strong research foundation
• Quantified impact metrics
• Evidence-based recommendations

Challenges Encountered

⚠️ Economic Viability

• Recycled textile costs still higher than virgin in some categories
• Requires subsidies or policy support initially
• Scale necessary for cost competitiveness

⚠️ Technology Limitations

• Advanced recycling (fiber-to-fiber) still limited in NL
• Investment needed in chemical recycling facilities
• Dependence on international recycling capacity

⚠️ Consumer Behavior Change

• Convenience critical for participation
• Clear communication essential
• Incentives boost engagement

Team Reflections

Sophie van der Berg (Team Lead)

“Working on Textile Twicely opened my eyes to the complexity of circular economy implementation. It’s not just about recycling - it requires redesigning entire systems, aligning economic incentives, and changing mindsets. The most rewarding part was seeing how our research could actually influence industry practice.”

Tim Jansen

“The textile waste problem is massive, but this project showed me that practical solutions exist. The key is collaboration between all stakeholders - brands, recyclers, consumers, and government. I’m excited to continue working in this space and hope to see some of our recommendations implemented in the coming years.”

Future Opportunities

Potential Extensions

1. Fashion Rental Integration

• Combine take-back systems with rental models
• Extend garment lifespan through multiple users
• Digital platform for tracking rental inventory

2. Textile-to-Textile Recycling

• Invest in chemical recycling capabilities
• Enable true closed-loop fashion
• Partner with innovative recycling tech companies

3. International Expansion

• Replicate model in other EU countries
• Harmonize material passport standards
• Create pan-European circular textile network

4. Blockchain Traceability

• Enhance transparency and verification
• Support sustainability claims
• Enable carbon credit trading

Downloads & Resources

• 📊 Final Presentation Deck (Available upon request)
• 📄 Research Report (Available upon request)
• 🌐 Project Website
• 💻 GitHub Repository

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Contact

For more information about this project or to discuss circular textile implementation, please contact the VCH team at info@valuechainhackers.xyz.

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This project was completed as part of the Value Chain Hackers initiative at Windesheim University, supervised by Maxime Bouillon. All findings and recommendations are based on research conducted between September 2024 and January 2025.